prosperous and historic resort area, Sanur is Indonesia's
answer to Waikiki. It's nine km southeast of Denpasar
and crowded with high-priced luxury hotels and clusters
of serene bungalows in leafy compounds along the shoreline
of a gentle, reef-sheltered lagoon. Guesthouses started
appearing here as early as the 1940s and heralded the
age of modern tourism on the island. Large hotel enclaves,
shady lanes, trees, and coral walls give the village
a park-like setting.
The sunrise over Pulau Nusa Penida each morning is magnificent.
At sunset, sailboats dot Sanur's horizon. Sanur is smaller,
quieter, prettier, safer, and more sheltered than Kuta
15 km to the southwest. It's also more expensive.
The big luxury hotels which have made Sanur famous are
on side streets off the main street and its 'dukun'
and trance mediums are renowned all over the island.
Despite the throngs of tourists, the village still retains
its Balinese character. Sanur is one of Bali's largest
traditional villages. Nevertheless village life goes
on and visitors can really experience the real Bali.
The trees are mature, the streets in good repair, and
there's less construction than in Kuta or Lovina. Sanur
is the preferred long-term residence for those Bali
expats who prefer the ocean and the city. The most exclusive
private estates, separated by vine-draped coral walls
and palm-fringed lanes, are in the Batu Jimbar neighborhood.
Within these elegant compounds are luxurious gardens,
swimming pools, lotus ponds, well-tended lawns, and
elegant, traditional thatched-roofed villas. Because
of its glamour, and snob appeal, the Sanur area is also
a favorite of diplomats and foreign consulates.
Only 2.5 km south of the Inna Grand Bali Beach Hotel
Resort and Spa, just beyond the village of Kesiman,
is an important place of remembrance, Padanggalak.
From the beach enjoy fine views of the
coastline and Sanur's 'hotel row'. It was on this beach
that the Dutch forces which eventually subjugated the
Balinese landed in 1906.
Thirty-six years later Dutch fleeing the Japanese also
came ashore here. And in 1946, the Dutch were back here
again, attempting to re-establish control over their
former colony, using KNIL units and meeting stubborn
resistance from the Balinese.
Padanggalak also commemorates a tragedy. A monument
here is dedicated to the people who died in the crash
of a Pan Am Boeing 707 that crashed into the side of
Gunung Patas west of Singaraja on 22 April 1974.
Mistaking the lights of boats and fishing platforms
off the north coast for the landing strip lights at
Bali's airport in Tuban in the south, the pilot came
in low and crashed headlong into the mountain, killing
all 107 people onboard. Visitors from 11 nations still
come here to pay their respects to the dead, laying
flowers and offerings at the small altar containing
the ashes of the victims. The village of Sanur located
on the eastern coast of Bali is the ideal beach for
snorkeling as it is protected by a coral reef. Sanur
is Bali's first beach resort.
From Kuta to Sanur, take a 'bemo' first to Terminal
Tegal in Denpasar, then a dark blue 'bemo' all the way
to Sanur. Or take a dark green 'bemo' from Denpasar's
Kreneng Terminal to Sanur. A two-km-long four-lane highway
runs six km from the southeastern edge of Denpasar (Renon)
to northern Sanur, dropping you off just north of the
Grand Bali Beach compound, then continuing down Jalan
With or without prior booking, look for the name of
your hotel on signs or vehicles at the airport for a
free air-conditioned ride to Sanur. A different way
to reach Sanur is to walk along the beach from Lebih,
south of Gianyar. This involves crossing the mouths
of several rather large rivers-exercise cautions.
The Sanur Terminal is at the south end of Sanur near
the Trophy Pub Center at the end of Jalan Danau Tamblingan.
On Jalan Tanjung Sari, flag down a blue or green public
'bemo' heading northwest to Denpasar's Kreneng Station
or a blue one heading south to Tegal Station. From here
you get another 'bemo' to Kuta.
Take yellow metered Praja taxis, tel. 62361-289090/191,
to the Matahari Department Store in Denpasar. You can
also take private cars or minibuses into Denpasar. If
you have your own vehicle, drive the beautiful new superhighway
via Batubulan in the direction of Ubud. This highway-perhaps
the best on the island-makes Sanur a good base from
which to explore the regencies of Bangli, Gianyar, and